Budapest: the best part

About a year and a half ago, I saw a program that featured some pretty awesome scenery of Budapest. I'm not sure why, but I got hooked in immediately by the shots of a thermal bath that looked like a North American spa on acid.

When the show ended, I couldn't stop thinking about beautiful Budapest.

So I started doing some research about the city, and learned a bit about its communist history, impressive architecture that survived the second world war, and the fact that it's a city built on an ancient system of thermal springs. It's these thermal springs that supply the city's multiple spas and baths, institutions that play a routine part in the life of thousands of Hungarians.

As someone who loves to swim -- and loves a good hot tub -- I was smitten. I REALLY wanted to go to Budapest to see these spas for myself.

So I did.

There's nothing really to compare the spas with in a North American context, but that didn't worry me. Splashing about and relaxing in one of the city pools is a standard activity for many Budapest locals, and I wanted to experience that for myself.

As it turned out, the apartment where I stayed on the Pest side of the city was mere blocks away from one of the largest Turkish baths in all of Europe: the Szechenyi Baths. Built in the early 1900s, the bath building itself is a sprawling bit of Ottoman-inspired architecture, set in the middle of a city park that also boasts a zoo, castle and amusement park.

The bath complex itself -- complete with columns, stone lions fountains and stained glass windows -- has three outdoor pools and about 16 indoor pools that are said to have medicinal properties. Most of the indoor pools are quite hot (between 28-36 Celcius). Once you've mastered the check in process (which can be a little confusing, as most of the attendants speak little English and the signs are all in Hungarian), you find yourself in the co-ed changing rooms, where you're provided with a little mesh bag for your clothing and a key to a locker, in which to store your belongings.

After you've wriggled your way out of your sweaty tourist garb and into your swimsuit, you need to find your way through the indoor maze of tubs and showers, outside to the magnificent open pool, where men, women and children float about blissfully in the warm water. There are jets and waterfalls and streams of every variety to keep you massaged and relaxed, and there's people watching galore -- including men in Speedos who crowd around tiled chessboards, standing chest high in water, pondering their next move (you might be able to spot them in the picture).

My favourite part had to be the "whirlpool" which wasn't at all what I expected. Instead of a circular tub with streams of forced water, this pool actually whirled -- the current was controlled so it swept unsuspecting swimmers around and around at great speed. It was pretty funny to hear the whoops of delight from grown adults as they spun around like kids at a water park.

In addition to the pools, there were saunas, steam rooms and massages on offer, but I didn't even seek them out. I was more than happy to float in the warm water, eavesdrop on several conversations in a variety of languages and just unwind. The baths truly are a part of daily life for many in Budapest, and doctors even write prescriptions for patients to "take the baths" (there's even a daytime hospital on site). That's one institution I'd happily be admitted to!

It was a great way to spend a sunny afternoon (or two afternoons in my case) in Budapest and I can't wait to go back.