Thursday, January 20, 2011

Pomegranate dressing

I don't have any pre-made salad dressings in my fridge. In fact, I haven't for years. If you have some oil, a bit of vinegar and maybe some mustard, it's all you need to whip up a great tasting salad topper any time you want. Why spend money on those bottles of chemicals?

We had this dressing at Christmas as part of our non-traditional dinner (well, non-traditional for us in that it featured roast beef instead of turkey). It was a bit different, festively pretty and even fun to make.

Start by de-seeding a pomegrante. A new tip I learned from Nigella is to separate the seeds under water. It works well, and avoids all those squirts of red juice from landing all over your clothes, walls and white cupboard doors. The seeds end up sinking to the bottom of the bowl, and the white pithy parts float to the top, making for easy removal. Cool, huh?

Then pop the seeds in the blender with the oil and lemon juice and puree until almost smooth.

Next, strain out all the seedy bits.

And you're left with a smooth, tart and refreshing vinagrette. I made this day in advance and it kept well in a jar. Just shake it a bit before you dress your greens.



Pomegranate dressing
By Laura Calder (as seen on the Food Network)

Ingredients
1 1/2 cups pomegranate seeds
1/4 cup olive oil
1/2 teaspoon lemon
salt and pepper

Directions
1.Place 1 cup of pomegranate seeds, olive oil and lemon in a blender. Pulse until ingredients are pureed. Strain through a fine sieve. Season with salt and pepper. Toss with mache and Belgian endive.

Thursday, January 13, 2011

Foie gras fracas

One of the big stories in Ottawa this week is about the NCC's announcement that Martin Picard was bowing out from his much-hyped Winterlude dinner event. Before Christmas, local foodies were excited to learn that Picard would be cooking a multi-course feast at the Museum of Civilzation during the annual winter festival. Most of those dishes would feature foie gras: Picard's signature ingredient and something he champions whenever and wherever he can.

But the hoopla around Picard coming to the capital raised the ire of some local animal rights groups, who complained and whined to the NCC and threatened some rowdy demonstrations if Picard used the duck livers in his menu. The NCC gave in to the pressure and Picard ended up saying adios to O-town.

Good for him.

Look, I'm not even a fan of foie gras, having only had it twice in my life, but animal abuse issues aside, telling a chef like Picard not to use it is like telling an Italian cook not to use tomatoes. The NCC were wimps to give in to these protesters, but Picard was definitely right to stick to his culinary guns and refuse to cook under constraints. Eating animals isn't a pretty thing, but there's a reason we're at the top of the food chain. I'm no advocate for animal pain or suffering, but I'm not convinced the ducks Picard uses experience either. I'm glad Picard is staying put in Montreal, where his creativity can be appreciated by true food lovers, rather than being stifled by skittish bureaucrats who don't want to rock the gravy boat.

For a glimpse of Picard's creations, check out this clip of chef and author Tony Bourdain's trip to Au Pied de Cochon.

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Lentil Vegetable Soup

So here we are in the middle of January. Ugh. Is there another month more trying than the first of the year, with its post-holiday letdown, cold temperatures, dark afternoons and never ending snow? I don't even have a winter holiday planned to keep me going.

But nevermind. I shouldn't complain, especially when a hot bowl of soup does wonders in the lift-the-spirits department. I made this veggie lentil soup a week or so ago, and with half a batch already down my hatch, and the other waiting for me in the freezer, I should have enough bowls to make it to at least February.

This soup comes together pretty quickly, and apart from a bit of chopping, it's easy. Plus, it's got lentils and veggies, which is a pretty healthy combination, which is much needed after the gluttony of Christmas.

(My pitures here are typically shit, but one of my resolutions is to improve them for 2011. Stay tuned to see how that goes.)


Chippity chop up your veggies to get started.
Then they get sauted in a bit of olive oil, along with some garlic.

And then in goes your lentils. These are the lentil du puy. Ohhh, fancy.


And here's the final product. I've made prettier soups for sure, but this is a pretty good, wholesome bowl that you can probably throw together from what's in your cupboard already.
From Mad Hungry, by Lucinda Scala Quinn

Serves 6 to 8

2 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, chopped (3/4 cup)
2 carrots, peeled and chopped (3/4 cup)
2 celery stalks, peeled and chopped (2/3 cup)
3 garlic cloves, minced (1 tablespoon)
1 tablespoon coarse salt
1 small tomato, chopped (1/3 cup)
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 cups brown or green lentils
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1 small bay leaf
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
6 cups chicken broth or vegetable broth
4 cups water, plus more if needed
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
Garlic Croutons, optional
Directions
1.Heat a large soup pot over high heat and swirl in the olive oil. Add the onion, carrots, celery, garlic, and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Reduce the heat to low and saute until the vegetables are lightly caramelized, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for another 2 minutes.
2.Add the lentils, thyme, bay leaf, pepper, and the remaining 2 teaspoons salt. Add the broth and water, and bring to a boil, skimming and discarding any foam as it rises to the surface. Reduce the heat and simmer until the lentils are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. (The cooking time depends on the age of the dried lentils.) Stir in the vinegar. Season to taste with salt and pepper. If needed, thin the soup with additional water or broth for the desired consistency. Serve in a bowl topped with fresh croutons, if using.

Saturday, January 8, 2011

Books of 2010

Happy new year! I thought I would start the year off on a bright note by showing a picture of my amaryllis that finally came into spectacular bloom a few days ago. It was slow to start, but now it's making up for it with three flowers and another couple on the way. Next year it'll be amaryllis all the way and no more paperwhites!

Before I say a complete goodbye to 2010, I compiled a few of my favourite reads I enjoyed over the past year (though many aren't new titles). In no particular order, they are...

One Day by David Nicholls

Probably my favourite read of the year, hands down. This book takes place during a single day from each year for two decades in the lives of two people who meet at their university graduation in 1988. Over the next 20 years, Dex, the spoiled and unfocused party boy, and Em, the brainy Yorkshire lass, deal with life, loss and love until finally realizing they can’t be apart. The writing here is addictive, and you can feel the upcoming movie sprouting from the pages.

Loving Frank by Nancy Horan

An interesting fictionalized story of the real-life relationship between architect Frank Lloyd Wright and Mamah Borthwick. More than just a tale of adultery, most of the focus is on Mamah, who has to balance her position as an early feminist with her decision to leave her marriage and children to be with Wright. In doing so, she not only deals with society’s scrutiny, but also Wright’s wild and uneven artistic sensibilities. Don’t ruin the novel by Googling the history of this couple before you read. The ending will be worth the wait.

Juliet Naked by Nick Hornby

Nick Hornby is one of my favourite authors. This book isn’t his best work, but it’s still an enjoyable read about a once-famous rock star, the sychophantic fan who idolizes him, and the English woman who ties them all together.

The Book Thief by Marcus Zusak

Death narrates this World War II-era story of a young girl living in Germany who steals books, even though she can’t read, as a way to bond with her foster father and compensate for the loss of her brother. The narrative here is unique and the story is heartbreaking and satisfying in a way that’s more mature than its intended teen audience would lead you to believe.

The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night Time by Mark Haddon

This story is narrated by a 15-year-old autistic boy who does math problems in his head, eats only certain colours of food and screams when he is touched. When he’s falsely accused of killing a neighbour’s dog, the boy decides to track down the killer, and in doing so explores his parents failed marriage and grows up. It’s an at times funny and touching story from the author of A Spot of Bother.

Girl in Translation by Jean Kwok

The story of a young Chinese girl who immigrates to Brooklyn with her mother, only to excel in school while fighting poverty at home. She and her mother work for next to nothing in a garment factory, and sleep without heat in a condemned apartment building. While a bit formulaic at times, it’s still a worthwhile coming of age tale told from a unique perspective.

Small Wars by Sadie Jones

The Outcast was one of my favourite books of 2009, so I was eager to read the follow-up from the same author. This story takes place in 1956 Cyprus when a young British army major is dispatched to the island with his wife and baby daughters in tow. Both Hal and Clara fight separate battles and experience life-changing violence. Not as strong a story as Jones’ debut, but still a worthwhile read.

The Lost City of Z: A Tale of Deadly Obsession in the Amazon by David Grann

This isn't the sort of book I would normally pick up, but after reading a raving review on another blog, I decided to give it a try. I'm glad I did, because this is a really riveting read about the real-life disappearence of British explorer Percy Fawcett ans his quest for a lost city in the Amazon. Think Indiana Jones adventure, combined with the articulate narrative of a New Yorker journalist.

Thursday, December 23, 2010

Christmas cranberry cookies

Can you believe it's the day after next? I had great intentions of doing a lot of baking this year, but instead I only got around to making these cookies from the Jamie Oliver Christmas magazine. They're pretty unique, in that they use fresh cranberries, instead of dried. I'm not entirely sure they were a total success, but they're something different at least.

The dough doesn't come together all that well, so you have to try your best to get it into log form. Luckily, after some time in the fridge, it hardens up nicely and manages to hold together.

Then you slice them up and pop them in the oven. They're quite pretty, aren't they?

And here's how they look after 12 minutes in a 350 oven. They spread out a bit, and the cranberries burst, causing some burning on the bottom. But overall they have a pretty delicate texture, and a nice flavour, if a little sweet.

Merry Christmas! And a special mention to the holiday elf who dropped off a much better selection of cookies to my house this week. Thanks, Ann!

Cranberry and White Chocolate Cookies
From Jamie Magazine, Christmas 2010 edition

100g butter
85g icing sugar
1 vanilla pod, split and seeds scraped
100g self-raising flour
30g cornflour
4 tablespoons rolled oats
50g white chocolate, roughly chopped
50 g cranberries, fresh or rehydrated*

Beat the butter and icing until pale. Add the vanilla.

Combine the flour, cornflour and oats. Add to the butter.

Mix in the chocolate and berries.

The mixture will appear quite dry but all you need to do is mold it together into a large ball. Cover it in clingfilm. Shape the dough into a roll about an inch and a half wide. Keep in the fridge for at least one hour.

Preheat the oven to 180c/gas mark 4.

Take the dough out of the fridge and remove the clingfilm. Using a sharp knife, slice the dough into 1cm rounds. Place them on a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper and bake for 12-15 mins. They should be golden brown but soft to touch.

Transfer to a cooling rack and allow to cool and crisp a little before devouring!

*To rehydrate dried cranberries, soak them in a little hot water until they are soft.

Monday, December 20, 2010

Gnocched out!

Gnocchi is something I've never made before. To be honest, I've really only ever eaten gnocchi a handful of times, but have always enjoyed it. And I've seen enough folks on the Food Network make it to convince myself I could pull it off.

Let's just say I need some more practice.

Gnocchi dough was much more fragile than I ever imagined, and it's fiddly too. I think you need a very delicate hand to work the dough, and then the cooking takes some work too. Too long in the boiling water and the little parcels fall apart, destroying all your hard work.

Well, hard work is maybe a bit much. There's really not much effort involved -- just time.

Start by ricing your baked potatoes. I don't have a ricer, so I pushed them through an ordinary sieve with the back of a spoon. Worked okay.

You're left with really light, fluffy potatoes.

See why it's called riced? Looks similar, huh?

Then you add in the egg and flour, which is basically all gnocchi is. The recipe stresses as little flour as possible to keep the dough light, and I think I heeded this advice too closely. I'm sure a bit more flour would have resulted in a more stable gnocchi at the end.

I cut up the log and tried my best to roll them into classic gnocchi shapes, complete with fork tine marks. But the dough was really, really delicate, so they didn't roll very well.

Into the boiling water they go. They gnocchi are done when they float to the top, usually in just a minute or so.

I ruined my first batch because I left them too long after they rose. They completely fell apart in the water (note the cloudy appearence in the pot). You have to watch gnocchi like a hawk!

I served them with some browned butter and sage sauce. A pretty hearty meal, if a little disappointing. (One thing I didn't particularly like about this recipe is that it called for the gnocchi to be refrigerated before boiling, which I did. Problem was, because the gnocchi actually cook so fast, they rose to the top but weren't hot all the way through. Next time I will probably take them out of fridge a bit early to warm up first.)

Jamie Oliver's Potato Gnocchi
Makes a whole batch for 2-3 people (but adapted for just me)

6 medium potatoes
Olive oil
Nutmeg, grated
1/2 - 1 teaspoon salt
Good grind of pepper
1 egg yolk
1-2 handfuls of plain flour
Cornmeal or semolina flour

1. Pre-heat the oven to 220 deg C.

2. Rub the cleaned potatoes with olive oil, prick them all over with a fork and lay them on a roasting tray. Place in the oven for 1 hour until they are crispy on the outside and cooked (fluffy, soft) on the inside.

3. Allow to cool for a few minutes, then cut them in half, scoop out the fluffy inside and place it in a sieve (or a mouli or ricer if you have one of those - I don't!).

4. Press the potato through the sieve into a large bowl so that it looks like 'grated' potato. Don't be fooled -this is the start of wonderful dry mash

5. Add the nutmeg, salt, pepper and egg yolk to the sieved potato. Add enough flour to bind the mixture. Mix together and knead with your hands until you have a dry, doughy consistency. Add more flour if too wet, and water if too dry.

6. Divide the dough into three pieces and roll each piece out on a floured surface into long tubes the thickness of a sausage.

7. Cut each of the tubes into 2.5 cm pieces, then press the tines of a fork into both sides of the gnocchi to give the characteristic ribbed marking.

8. Place them on a a plate or tray sprinkled liberally with semolina or cornmeal, and allow to sit in the fridge for about 20 minutes to set.

9. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Drop the gnocchi into the water - how many you can fit in the pan depends on the size of the pan, because you don't want them sticking together. I used 10 in my pan.

10. The gnocchi are done when they rise to the surface of the boiling water.

11. Drain gently and carefully....otherwise they will end up as mashed potato! You can either use a slotted spoon, or gently drain in a colander.

12. Serve with whichever sauce you fancy - a tomato sauce, or grated cheese, or just tossed in butter and sage.