Thursday, January 13, 2011

Foie gras fracas

One of the big stories in Ottawa this week is about the NCC's announcement that Martin Picard was bowing out from his much-hyped Winterlude dinner event. Before Christmas, local foodies were excited to learn that Picard would be cooking a multi-course feast at the Museum of Civilzation during the annual winter festival. Most of those dishes would feature foie gras: Picard's signature ingredient and something he champions whenever and wherever he can.

But the hoopla around Picard coming to the capital raised the ire of some local animal rights groups, who complained and whined to the NCC and threatened some rowdy demonstrations if Picard used the duck livers in his menu. The NCC gave in to the pressure and Picard ended up saying adios to O-town.

Good for him.

Look, I'm not even a fan of foie gras, having only had it twice in my life, but animal abuse issues aside, telling a chef like Picard not to use it is like telling an Italian cook not to use tomatoes. The NCC were wimps to give in to these protesters, but Picard was definitely right to stick to his culinary guns and refuse to cook under constraints. Eating animals isn't a pretty thing, but there's a reason we're at the top of the food chain. I'm no advocate for animal pain or suffering, but I'm not convinced the ducks Picard uses experience either. I'm glad Picard is staying put in Montreal, where his creativity can be appreciated by true food lovers, rather than being stifled by skittish bureaucrats who don't want to rock the gravy boat.

For a glimpse of Picard's creations, check out this clip of chef and author Tony Bourdain's trip to Au Pied de Cochon.

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