Monday, August 27, 2012

Raspberry pie


The end of summer also means the end of raspberry season, which is a sad event indeed. I'm not sure why raspberries always seem so elusive. I spend a good deal of time driving around the city trying to buy them while they're around for those few short weeks. But when the result is a box of perfectly plump berries, all scarlet and bursting with flavour, the effort is so worth it.

This year, the raspberry gods were smiling down on me, and I managed to purchase a couple of litres of berries in early August. I immediately decided I wanted to make a pie, and the evidence of that is above.

Raspberry pie is probably my all-time favourite. My fondness likely stems back to my Grandma Pammett, who was an excellent pie baker. Butter tarts, icebox cookies and pies were some of her specialties, and I have lots of good memories of eating raspberry pies in her little dining room in the house on Bolivar Street. I have the same hutch from that room in my own dining room now, so I like to think there was a little familial continuity when I baked and served this pie many decades later.

I followed the filling recipe from Joy of Cooking, so if you're inclined, you can look it up. It calls for about 6 cups of fruit, some sugar to taste, zest of a lime or lemon and a bit of flour or cornstarch. In it goes to the pie crust, the recipe for which came from this book (sourced through a phone call to my mum, so more points for familial connections on that point). The recipe is fairly standard, but I will tell you the secret is to use all butter for the fat. It helps if the butter is frozen, because then it will grate perfectly into the flour. It makes for a very crisp and flaky pastry, which is really what you want in a pie.

You can see the result in the picture. It's far from perfect, and I'm sure Dorothy P wouldn't approve of my laziness in the basketweave top, nor in my haphazard crimping round the edges. But messy though it may be, there's no denying its tastiness. Shame I'll have to wait another year for the next one.

Monday, August 13, 2012

Coconut cake with berries and cream

Summer birthdays can pose a bit of a problem (says the one born in November). Not a problem when it comes to celebrating of course, but when it comes to cake. Summer temperatures, or the overbearing, shirt-soaking heat we've had this summer, can wreak havoc on iced birthday cakes. So what to do? Give up and skip dessert altogether? Don't be ridiculous! The answer is an easy, tasty cake you can serve cold.

This one fits the bill nicely. It's a coconut cake full of moist coconutty goodness. It's a variation on a tres leche cake, substituting in coconut milk for the evaporated milk. The end result is delicious and unlike anything I've had before. I made it for my brother's birthday at the cottage this year (as he's a fan of coconut). It was a hit with all the toddlers, middle-agers and seniors who present at the party.

Let's get started....
Mix up your cake batter, which is essentially a sponge cake. The difference is the coconut. The original recipe calls for 1/3 cup of unsweeted coconut, which wasn't enough, in my opinion. The second time I made this cake, I used sweetened coconut, and upped the quantity to 3/4 cup.


While the cake bakes, you get your 'milks' ready.


This is how the cake looks when it comes out of the oven.


Poke several holes in the cake before you pour over your milks, so the liquid can soak in. It might take a while, but eventually it'll seep in. Yum!


And here's the finished product. You can top with more whip cream if you like, but it's not necessary. Don't skip on the berries though -- raspberries and peaches are especially nice.

Coconut cake with berries and cream
From Martha Stewart Living
  • 1 stick unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus more for pans
  • 6 large eggs, separated
  • 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/4 teaspoon fine salt
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1/3 cup flaked unsweetened coconut, toasted and finely ground
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour, divided
  • 2 cups heavy cream, divided
  • 1 can (13.75 ounces) unsweetened coconut milk
  • 1 can (14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk
  • 3 cups mixed fresh berries (about 12 ounces), for serving

Directions
  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Generously butter a 9-by-13-inch glass baking pan. Whisk together egg whites, baking soda, and salt in a stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment on medium speed, until soft peaks form, 4 to 5 minutes.
  2. Add egg yolks to egg-white mixture, and whisk until completely combined. Gradually add sugar, and whisk until combined. Fold in butter and coconut with a rubber spatula.
  3. Sift 1/4 cup flour onto mixture; fold to combine. Repeat with remaining flour, folding in 1/4 cup at a time. Pour batter into pan; bake until golden and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes.
  4. Meanwhile, whisk together 1 cup heavy cream, the coconut milk, and condensed milk. As soon as cake is removed from oven, pour cream mixture over cake. Let cake cool completely in pan on a wire rack. Cover cake with plastic wrap, and refrigerator at least 5 hours and up to 8 hours.
  5. Just before serving, whisk remaining cup heavy cream until soft peaks form, and spread over cake. Serve with mixed berries.

Sunday, August 5, 2012

Summer salads

Summer's such a great time for salads. They're an ideal way to use a variety of produce, and if you make big batches, they make for an easy lunch or supper without having to turn on the stove. These are two recipes I made for the first time this year. Both are tasty, and both have made repeat turns in my kitchen over the last few weeks. And not surprisingly, both come courtesy of Jaime Oliver.

First up is a great pasta salad. The basic recipe is fantastic, but I modified it a little to add some protein in the form of beans and lentils. This makes a quick lunch for a number of days running.
One fun thing about this salad is the dressing. While the pasta's cooking (and the lentils in my case), you add in three cloves of garlic into the water during the last few minutes. This softens the garlic a little, so you can mash it up in your mortar and pestle to serve as a base for your dressing. It's fun to do and gets out some aggressions along the way.


With the dressing out of the way, next up is the chopping. It takes a little time, so make sure you have a good podcast on in the background (my latest faves are Here's the Thing, with Alec Baldwin and WTF with Marc Maron).

This last photo is particularly terrible, but the lighting wasn't cooperating with me for the shoot. Trust me that the final product is prettier than this.


And here's an only slightly better shot of the other salad, a great combination of beet and green apple. Toss in a little mint or basil, dress lightly with lime juice, olive oil and some salt and pepper, and you've got yourself a winner. This one was a hit with my niece recently, especially after I told her eating it would turn her pee pink.


Best Pasta Salad
adapted from jamieoliver.com and itaintmeatbabe.com

1 cup dried lentils (I like lentils du puy)
1/2 cup cooked or canned black beans (or beans of your choice)
11 oz small shells pasta
3 fairly small cloves of garlic still in their skins
1 1/2 cups yellow cherry tomatoes, quartered
1 1/2 cups red cherry tomatoes, quartered
1/2 an english cucumber, chopped, or several Lebanese cukes
1/4 cup pitted black olives, chopped
2 tbsp fresh chives, chopped
1/4 cup lightly packed fresh basil, chopped
4 tbsp white wine vinegar
7 tbsp olive oil
salt and pepper to taste

Boil 3 cups of lightly salted water and add the dry lentils. Cook until they are tender, approximately 15 minutes. Drain and set aside.

In a larger pot of salted water, boil pasta and whole cloves of garlic until the pasta is al dente, approximately 5 minutes. Drain pasta and set garlic aside to cool. You want your garlic to be smushy. If you can't squeeze it out of its skin, then you'll need to boil it for a little longer.
Combine tomatoes, cucumber, herbs, and olives in a large bowl and add cooled pasta and lentils. Uniformity is crucial to make this salad work well, so ensure that all your vegetables are chopped to similar sizes. Using the size of the pieces of pasta is a good guide.

Using a mortar and pestle or some other kind of mashing apparatus, smush the boiled garlic into a paste. Then add vinegar and olive oil. You can season this dressing with salt and pepper if you are feeling brave, or you can wait until the whole salad is mixed and season it to taste then.
Mix the dressing in with all the other ingredients. Season accordingly and chill in the fridge for half an hour or so before serving.
Jamie says the salad serves four, but this makes a LOT, so I would guess it would serve six or so as main and many more as a side dish.

Beet and apple salad
Adapted from Jaime Magazine

There's a full recipe for this in a recent issue of Jamie's magazine that also calls for the inclusion of red cabbage. I left out the cabbage and it's still pretty great. This is my rendition of the salad from memory, but it's incredibly adaptable.

2 beets, raw, peeled and/or scrubbed *up quantities if you need to make more
1-2 Granny Smith apples, depending on your preference
handful of mint leaves or basil leaves finely chopped
juice of half-whole lime
drizzle of olive oil
salt and pepper to taste

Scrub your beets and remove root and topper. Depending on how clean they are, and how thick the skin is, you may choose to peel these. Slice them up and cut into matchstick pieces. If you'd rather grate these in the food processor, or by hand, feel free.

Do the same with the apples, minus the peeling step. Drop into a bowl, and scatter over your mint or basil leaves (or you could use a combination). Drizzle over the oil to taste, the lime and seasoning. Mix together with your fingers, which will no doubt be stained pink from your beet chopping.
The apples soon turn pink on account of the beets, but that's part of the charm. This is very good at room temperature, but even better cold from the fridge.